year three with my blancpain villeret

Specifications

Ref. #	*4053-3642-55* 4053 - 40mm case housing a Frederic Piguet Cal. 1153 movement. 36 – Rose Gold, 42 – Opaline Dial. 55 – Leather strap with tang buckle.
Function	Two hands, time only.
Complication	Ultra-slim
Self-winding	Yes
Case
Case material	Red gold
Thickness	8.8 mm
Diameter	40 mm
Water-resistance	30 m
Between horns	22 mm
Dial	Opaline
Bracelet	Croco
Movement
Calibre	1153
Thickness	3.25 mm
Diameter	26.2 mm
Power reserve in hours	100
Jewels	28
Components	188

Introduction

I bought this watch in February of 2003. In February 2004, I wrote a one year review. In February 2005, I wrote a two year review. Now, in February 2006, it's time for my three year review.

This watch continues to be my everyday work watch--I wear it most weekdays. Because this watch is, for most people, a dress watch, it is unlikely there are any other owners who wear this piece as often as I do. I have worn this watch for a total of about 700 days. I'll go out on a limb and assert that I have used, examined, and admired this watch more than anyone else in the world. In fact, I daresay I have more experience wearing this watch than even the designers and watchmakers at Blancpain.

The Good

Performance

During the first year I owned this watch, it ran about +4 crown up and -3 dial up. I could therefore keep it regulated quite closely by alternating its overnight storage positions.

In its second year as an everyday watch, the timing issue has become more murky. Now that I wear it everyday, I seldom leave it in one position for 24 hours, so accurate gain/loss times are not usually available. Also, I have found that my laziness has naturally crept into my daily procedures: I usually just leave the watch lying crown up on top of the watch box and only put it away on Friday afternoons where it stays until Monday (fall semester) or Tuesday (current semester). So the watch, which has always lost time (run slow) crown up, doesn't spend enough time stored dial up in its box (it has always run fast dial up) to make up the difference. During it's first year it spent approximately 4 days/week dial up (-3/day) and 3 days/week crown up (+4/day) and that worked out to (-12) + (+12) = 0 seconds/week! However, 2.5 days/week (on average) dial up and 4.5 days/week crown up should mean about (-7.5) + (+18) = +10.5 seconds/week. But I actually experience about +50 seconds/week and there are a few explanations for this:

The watch is slowing down linearly 6 seconds/day so is now actually running +3 dial up / +10 crown up ((2.5 * (+3)) + (4.5 * (+10)) = +52.5 seconds/week).
The timing during storage is swamped by wrist wear and it simply runs +10 on the wrist.
Some combination of these two situations (this seems likely).

In any case I find it runs about a minute slow per week. About twice per month I set the watch (when it is a minute slow) to the current time plus one minute. During the next week it slows to the current time and during the second week it falls a minute slow, then I set it again.

The bad

The time has come, finally, to discuss problems and design mistakes. After 3 years, the honeymoon is over so I should be able to objectively see the problems with this watch.

Before I begin though, I'd like to remind everyone that this is still a stunningly beautiful watch and I love wearing and studying it. It will continue to be my daily wearer for a fourth year and I have no intention of ever selling it. The problems mentioned here must be kept in perspective: they are minor compared to the overall aesthetic which is still unparalleled in all of watchdom. With that in mind, here are some issues that have finally revealed themselves.

CCW winding

I didn't think (and in fact have never met anyone who thought) the direction of winding mattered. But it does.

Here's the problem. If you consider the most violent action you might perform with your forearm during a day it is likely directed away from your body. When that movement stops, the rotor in your watch continues on and spins. This can either wind the watch (as a typical CW winder does) or free-wheel (as this CCW blancpain does). This all means that there are a few times during the day when you will feel the rotor spinning wildly within the case.

Perhaps this delecate 3mm thick movement with its intricate double barrel winding system was designed to not wind in these extreme cases so any likely violent forces are not transferred into the winding works. In that case, lifespan may be improved by such a decision.

Timeless design

When looking at this watch, it looks generic enough that it might have been produced in 2000 or, just as likely, in 1900 or even 1800. This timeless design is just what I wanted in a watch which I'm hoping lasts 500 years. However, the details of the design do hint at the era it was made.

First, the lugs are too short. There, I said it. Even with curved springbars, the middle of every strap rubs on the case at 12 and 6. If the lugs were longer, the strap could have been spaced further from the case. This flaw has and will continue to reduce the lifespan of my straps and will eventually wear flatspots into the case. This indicates that the watch must have come from around 2000, since longer lugs were the norm for earlier watches.

The ugly

There is nothing about this watch which is ugly, but physical damage to the case is inevitable. How is the soft 18k gold holding up?

The 2:00 ding

I was wearing my watch (as always) and I smacked my arm into something and whacked the watch good. I remember looking carefully at the watch immediately afterwards to inspect for damage. Sure enough, I had dinged the edge of the bezel which

Patina

The entire case has begun to show a slight patina where the gold softly glows in the light rather than throwing harsh sharp reflections.

Crystal scratches

Part of what makes this watch so striking is its wide expanse of dial (about 36mm diameter) looks as if you could touch it because the crystal is nearly invisible. This makes the dial 'pop' in a very vivid way. To accomplish this, the watch has an antireflective coating on both the inner and outer surfaces of the crystal. However, the antireflective coating is much softer than the sapphire itself. While it is nearly impossible to scratch the sapphire, the coating can be scratched.

The scratches that have built up on this coating in 2 years cannot be seen in normal room light. A strong light must hit the crystal at a glancing angle to see the few thin lines that are present. Eventually the coating will detract from rather than enhance the visibility of the dial, but at the current rate of decline, it will be several decades before that is a problem. At that point, the coating can be removed (polished off). In the meantime, I'll enjoy the clarity of the piece.

New straps

This year I've added 2 new straps to my collection bringing the total to 5. There's now a ridged waterproof strap in brown leather and a thick padded tan ostrich with constrasting stitching.
Strap collection

Black carbon fibre

Overall

This continues to be my only 'good' watch. I have little desire to seek a replacement as this watch continues to work well as an everyday watch. And even after three years of close daily examination I still believe this is the world's most beautiful watch. Such a high standard is hard to match so I have little incentive to grow my collection.

Discussions about this watch

Longevity

Watch of Ages
I want my watch to last 500 years.

In order for my watch to last longer than me, I want to imbue all subsequent owners with some of my passion for its longevity. So sharp. The problem is the manuals don't actually reside in the inner box, they're in the outer box which is more likely to disappear over the centuries.

In 498 years, we'll know if it worked.
><gts

Why quartz watches have no soul
Most people believe the soul is the part that endures. So for a watch to have "soul" it must last and last.

A mechanical watch can be fixed no matter what breaks. A quartz watch is unrepairable if certain parts break. It cannot have a soul since it cannot endure.
><gts

What materials?
I was wondering if someone could tell me what the face and hands on the watches are made off. In some older watches I notice the face has and is fading. Will this happen to Blancpain watches or are they using any "new" materials that do not age the way the older watches did?
-Hugh

Re: What materials?
The dial is brass (as are all watches) which is painted or enamelled. All the hands and markers are 18K gold, matching the case material. Even a steel watch has 18K white gold hands and markers. so my own slips will be in good company.

Besides, no gem is flawless. It is the flaws that make a piece unique.
><gts

visit my wife's peony garden: